How To Sew A Rocking Chair Cushion Cover – Do you have an old chair that is in good shape, but not the cushion? Don’t worry, it’s an easy fix! stay Today I will show you how to make a cushion cover for a chair. If you have an old chair with good… Read more
Do you have an old chair that is in good shape, but not the cushion? Don’t worry, it’s an easy fix! stay Today I will show you how to make a cushion cover for a chair.
How To Sew A Rocking Chair Cushion Cover
If you have an old chair with good bones or a chair that has survived on cushions, you’re in luck, because they say they don’t make them like they used to!
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I was recently struck by how lucky my husband and I are to somehow have inherited a treasured piece of furniture from each of our 4 sets of grandparents.
One of those pieces is a handmade chair from Chuck’s grandfather. It’s not exactly our style, but we want to honor it and take care of it. And today it has a little makeover.
If you want to learn how to make a chair cushion or how to sew a cushion cover for a bench in your home or outdoors, this post will walk you through with a list of materials and step-by-step instructions. Here we go!
There are several approaches to this project, but I think the best way to start is to measure your pillow if you already have one, or determine how big your new pillow needs to be to fit your chair or bench.
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When you buy a new foam insert, you need to determine the height of the cushion based on the dimensions of the chair or bench. Combine that with what you buy.
Easy access pillows are usually 1, 2 and 3 inches tall. In addition to collecting measurements for the length and width, the footprint of the pillow.
For the pattern, any type of paper or cardboard will work. I love the roll of medical patterns on Amazon (affiliate link). It is relatively cheap and is nice and thin, just like commercial sewing patterns. I used this for my pillow pattern.
On the other hand, I chose a stiff cardboard for the wooden base pattern because it was stiff and could stay on the bottom of the chair so it would fit. I glued pieces of cardboard together because the cardboard sheets I had were too small.
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Make one for the top of the cushion, one for the wooden base of the chair or bench, and one for the side panel strip that wraps around the cushion (optional).
Your pillow and wooden base can be the same size, or you can make them slightly different sizes.
My pillow is a little different because I wanted to go around the side edges, while my wooden base has sharp corners to fit the chair well.
For the side piece, measure the length around the cushion and the height of your foam insert plus the wood plus about 3-4 inches to draw on the bottom of the base.
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If you are chaining, you can also make a pattern for the width of the bias strip, but it is not necessary.
To make sure your pattern is symmetrical, you can cut out half of your pattern shape and flip it over, then repeat.
As you draw each shape on the paper, add all the dimensions. This process will ultimately help you decide how much fabric to buy.
The seam allowance is the area between the edge of the raw material and the seam line of the pieces of material being sewn.
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They typically range from 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) in width to several inches. It’s up to you how wide you want to make yours. I usually use a 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seam allowance.
Fabric piping, also called welt or cording, is the fabric-covered trim you’ll find on a variety of upholstery, slipcovers, cushions and headboards. The pipe gives all projects a personalized and professional look.
Simply put, bias is to cut strips of fabric on the bias (diagonal direction) of the fabric and wrap it around the string.
Cutting the fabric on the slope allows it to stretch and wrap better around the curves of the pillow. The laces can then be sewn to the edges of the pillowcase to add cute details.
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For added interest, consider contrasting the fabric of the piping with that of the pillow. Play with patterns or prints that complement your base fabric.
It’s worth the time to add it to your project and it’s easy, trust me! Don’t worry though, you can also buy tubes in different colors and sizes. Or skip the borders altogether, because your pillow will still look beautiful.
Take actual measurements or your drawing at your local fabric store. Their staff will help you figure out the best way to lay the pattern on the fabric and how much fabric to use for your DIY seat cushion.
When buying fabric, consider how much the chair or bench will be. Make sure it is thick and durable enough for your intended use. I bought my fabric at JoAnn Fabrics.
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Once you’ve bought your fabric and brought it home, you can pre-wash it if you want, but chances are, once the cover is finished and stapled in place, you won’t be taking it out to wash it. However, it may be a good idea to clean them from time to time.
Scotchgard works like magic and will keep your pillow looking new for much longer. Follow the instructions on the package before opening.
How to make a bench seat cushion or how to make chair cushions with bows. Click here or Click here
I’ve broken down the instructions step by step for you, so it may seem long, but it’s not hard at all! DIY seat cushions are quick and easy to make. Let’s get started!
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1 Measure the bottom of your chair or bench. Determine the size of the base and cushion. They can be the same size or slightly different. It depends on you.
2 Make a paper or cardboard pattern for the cushion, base and side panel. (A pattern for the side panel is optional since it is a real piece, but it can help when cutting the fabric.)
4 Cut out the plywood base with a circular saw. Place the tree on your chair or bench to make sure it fits properly. Slice or dice as needed.
6 Cut your foam pad with an electric knife. This is SO easy and fun! Holding the electric knife vertically, cut around the outline of the marker. It doesn’t have to be perfect.
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It’s also worth noting that this will NOT destroy your electric knife. You can use your knife for food. Don’t worry, it cleans well. Just don’t tell your guests what you did.
7 Put the pillow in place to see if it fits properly. Cut more foam if needed to fit.
A) For mine, I cut a piece slightly larger than my pillow. I used the pillow as a guide. My smoothie then sits on top of the pad and is lightly rolled around all 4 edges.
B) But for added security, you can also add batting at the top and then wrap the front of the foam pad and continue down. There is no need to cover the other 3 pages. In other words, jump the left, right and back of the pad.
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Once you’ve cut the batting to fit, smooth it out and stretch it to fit over the pillow. You will find that it stretches and shapes very easily.
). This glue holds the pad in place, making it easier to fit the cover and keeping everything more secure when the pad is in use.
The batting is optional, but protects the foam insert. More importantly, it softens and softens square edges and improves the overall look.
9 Cut out your fabric pieces. You will need the top and side pieces. If you are knitting, you will also want to cut bias strips from the fabric.
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10 You may need to assemble the side panel as it is very long. If you have more than one piece, sew the side pieces together now.
With the right sides of the fabric together, sew the side pieces to their ends. Then press the seam(s) up on the wrong side of the fabric.
This helps the fabric sit well and gives a finished look to the outside of the pillow (if visible ☺️).
14 Sew the top pillow piece to the side panel around the edge of the pillow with right sides together. If you use a pipe, attach it between the two.
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I usually cast on first, sewing once with a longer stitch. This ensures that everything fits well before the final stitch.
And if it doesn’t fit, the long pieces can tear easily. If everything looks good, another round with a shorter point